What animal hoarding leaves in a home
The American Psychiatric Association describes animal hoarding as keeping large numbers of animals in conditions that can become unsafe for both the animals and the people, often with limited awareness of the problem. Most people in this situation care deeply about their animals, and families often feel a mix of worry, frustration and grief.
Physically, the home usually shows a heavy buildup of feces and urine, soiled bedding, food waste and pet hair. Urine soaks through carpet and pad into wood subfloors, runs under baseboards and wicks up drywall, and the resulting ammonia odor can be strong enough to irritate eyes and lungs.
The animals come first
We do not take custody of, rehome or remove animals. Before cleanup begins, every animal should be placed with its owner's chosen caregiver, a rescue organization, a humane society or animal control. If animal welfare is a concern, contact local animal control or a humane organization.
Once the home is empty of animals, we can work without stressing them and without new waste being added as we clean.
How we approach the cleanup
- Assess ventilation and conditions We check how strong the ammonia is and open the home to fresh air where possible before the crew begins heavy work.
- Clear out waste and bedding Feces, litter, bedding, food waste and items you agree to discard are bagged and removed.
- Take out saturated materials With your approval, urine-soaked carpet, pad, tack strip, baseboards and lower drywall are removed, because they hold odor that surface cleaning cannot reach.
- Treat the subfloor Exposed subfloors and slabs are cleaned with enzyme or detergent products, then disinfected per label; an odor-blocking sealer can follow once surfaces are dry.
- Clean what stays Hard furniture, crates, cabinets and fixtures that will be kept are cleaned and disinfected.
- Final odor check We walk the home with you to confirm remaining odor sources have been found and removed.
Materials most often affected
- Wall-to-wall carpet and its padding
- Plywood and OSB subfloors
- Baseboards, door casings and the lower section of drywall
- Upholstered furniture and mattresses
- Crates, cages and litter areas
- HVAC returns and vents near floor level
- Garages, yards, sheds and outbuildings where animals were kept
Ammonia, parasites and odor
Ammonia from concentrated urine is an irritant, and dried feces can carry parasites and bacteria. Our crew wears respiratory protection, gloves, eye protection and disposable coveralls, and we limit how long anyone works in the strongest areas.
We do not rely on ozone to fix animal odor. EPA says ozone may mask odors but there is little scientific support for claims that it removes them, and it should only ever be used in unoccupied spaces. Removing saturated materials is what makes the real difference.
Getting the home ready
- Make sure all animals, including any hiding in closets or crawlspaces, have been safely removed.
- Avoid spending long periods inside if the odor is strong.
- Open windows if you can do so safely.
- Set aside any paperwork, medications or valuables you already know about.
- Tell us about any rooms where animals died, so we can plan for that area.
Rebuild, pests and support
Flea or insect activity after the animals leave should go to a chartered pest control company. Replacement flooring, drywall and trim are rebuild work for a contractor. Duct cleaning goes to an HVAC contractor. Our pet urine odor removal and pet waste cleanup pages describe smaller-scale versions of the same problem.
The same work applies in single-family homes, rental units, multi-unit buildings and, occasionally, business premises. Families sometimes find that the person involved benefits from mental-health support alongside the cleanup. We encourage that, without judgment.